Not bad, just rusty

Saulenas’ Tavern: Part III

After finishing the main walls of the structure, I started making a roof cap.

Using a chunk of regular, corrugated cardboard I traced the structure from the inside and carefully cut it out. 10 minutes later, I had my roof. Black construction paper was then lightly misted with flat-gray, rattle can primer and strips cut using a razor blade. Each were then lightly sanded with 120 grit sandpaper, concentrating on the edges, allowing the black paper to show through, simulating tar. More will be done to weather the roof, but I’m happy with this as a start.

Then I got down to the roof capping (which you can see from this photo above). Firstly, I knew I wanted some thickness to it in the form of a staggered “double layer” — so, using a strip of 1/32 x 1/4” basswood, I glued a scale 2×10 down the length, leaving a 1/16” gap to one side and a slightly bigger gap on the other. This meant the 2×10 was slightly off-center – but that’s okay, this was the desired effect (see below photo to help explain all this).

The cap strips were then painted and so began an affair with the NWSL CHOPPER. Using the 45 degree angle, all the pieces were cut accordingly. An hour or so later and the work was done. The cap was repainted once glued in place, allowing acrylic paint to fill any small gaps in the mitered joints.

Photos of the Tavern below — highlighting what the two glued strips look like once in place. The great thing about this method is that it does two things 1) achieves the layered effect I was after but 2) it allowed the capping a uniform, guided support when gluing in place.

Additional side note: I’ve noticed that the stairs to the original Saulenas was sourced from either Westside Auto or Stuffy’s Brewery. Both kits feature the same detail casting for the stairs, so if anyone is looking to do this build in the future and doesn’t have a 3D printer, check those kits out! If you do have a 3D printer, I’m attaching the STL file of the model I created:

The next step was adding the corbels. Looking at the original model, I decided to create and 3D print a similar design. Using my translucent green resin (because exposure time is low) I printed around 40 corbels.

After referencing the photos for spacing, each were applied using superglue for the ever-lasting bond.

From here, I added some posters and signs. Just like Swee’Peas’, I took time to find the original font used for Saulenas’ and printed out some signs. I mounted them on Matboard and added stripwood trim, matching the original signs as closely as possible (see below photos for more)
Then, I began work on the windows. For the new walls, I used Tichy Train Group windows and for any wall that remained unmodified from the Bar Mills kit, I used their laser cut windows.

In the past, I’ve always loathed constructing laser cut windows, but you know what… I loved using them this time around. In fact, I think this kit has changed my view of them. They are very flexible in their presentation (open, closed, half-half) that I appreciate their design all over. During my last visit to Hobby Lobby, I set out to find some good paper/cardstock for window shades. I find their “Fall Spice” cardstock collection, presenting muted tones that are perfect for most of my particular builds:

I added some curtains using the tissue backing found on the acetate in the Bar Mills kit and then, with the windows out of the way, I went back to Tinkercad and designed a new storefront. The left hand wall, on the original prototype, has a storefront with awning:

There are zero photos of this storefront, so I did my own take. I printed and primed it:

As 3D printing is all about using up as much build plate space as possible (printing time is affected by height, not object quantity) I put together a bunch of designs I’ve either designed myself or collected from websites such as Thingiverse or Sketchfab. I primed these prints with the storefront:

Most of these details will be added once the structure is complete and the tribute diorama as a whole begins to come together.

I went over the entire structure lifting clapboards with my x-acto and adding chalk pastels, adding a fair amount of weathering.

Finally, I painted and fit the storefronts from the Bar Mills kit (again, this is beauty of taking a kit and modding it) and that’s brought me to the following state:

I still have lots to do — and feel like I’ve only just broken the back of this awesome build.

1) Window shades and awnings
2) Rooftop weathering and details
3) Micro-detailing throughout, including: lamp shades, pigeons, old newspapers, billowing curtains, electrical boxes and cabling, downspouts and even more on the street-level (corner post, mailbox, bench etc)
4) Organic weathering such as lichen and moss.
5) Adding Preisers.

This puts the build at 75% done currently.

by RR on December 12, 2020, filed: ROCKY POINT HARBOR (HO)

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